May 1, 2009
Blog is moving
I moved my blog to another domain.
You are all welcome to visit it at new location: http://ekaterina-khaletskaya.org
All the best,
Katya
Apr 29, 2009
Juice or book?
To make those shakes, they take some power from city cable. Most probably they are doing it illegally.
Lets take a closer look what happens.
100 of juice shops like this in Karachi, and in the evening we will not have the power in the apartments for at least 1,5 hours.
Are you having a fresh shake in the morning or reading a book in the evening?
Unfortunately, it is still not up to us.
Apr 26, 2009
Being a foreigner in Pakistan
Ksusha, Bogdan and I went out for a picnic in the park.
Having finished the dinner (and half of the chapter of my book) we saw a group of people, looking like a big middle-class Pakistani family, going straight to our place.
They shake hands with us one by one and then asked to make a video. After the video was made, one of the women put her palm up showing that she wants us to leave signature there. We had no chance to say no, and soon her entire palm was covered with ink.
One of the guys (he seems the eldest and the only one knowing English) started to talk to Bordan: where are you from, where you studied, and how he would go visit his country. Others listened adorably.
Ksusha giving autograth to a local woman
We smiled. Yet I didn't feel comfortable about the whole thing. I am the same human being as you are, and my white skin and English skills are not the reason for giving autograph to you.
We packed our things and went away, before a new group of people could have come to take pictures with us.
Since the times when
It is more obvious in
Pakistanis do their best to impress foreigners: for instance, in cafes and other public places they are usually over polite, even some hostels in
When I go to the shop, market or talk to the ordinary people on the street, they usually think that I come from
Поза дерева
Мы созваниваемся каждую неделю: как дела, как настроение, здоровье, какие новости, не тоскую ли вдали от дома.
Я заметила, что в последнее время, разговаривая с мамой, я прилагаю огромные усилия, чтобы вспомнить, что у меня идет не так.
Не может же быть так, чтобы все хорошо. Я к этому не привыкла...
Но, оглядываясь на прошедшую неделю: как я отмечала Пасху с ребятами из десяти разных уголков земли, с пакистанским "куличем", больше похожем на Christmas cake; смотрели с Шерми Ramchand Pakistani на языке Урду и понимали все без слов; ездили смотреть на крокодилов в суфийском храме, а потом, голодные, уминали вкуснейшее пакистанское chickem makni в Tandoori Hut; обсуждали с Марьям случай со студентом в Лахоре - когда же люди в этой стране одумаются и вспомнят ценности, заложенные в ее фундаменте; поздравляла Арсалаана с предстоящей стажировкой в Украине в местной школе; с открытым ртом слушали экскурс в историю Пакистана от Junaid'а - совсем молодого, а такого интеллигентного, и спорили, и делали открытия, каждый для себя и общие; укутывалась в Пакистанский платок поверх shalwar kameez'а, сидя на валике и слушая пакистанскую народную музыку в Университете Искусства; ездила на работу на местном автобусе, теснясь между школьницами в черных одеждах с тетрадями на коленках, - я молча улыбаюсь.
Я люблю свою работу, за которой рабочий день по ощущениям длится не 8 часов, а всего час. Моя работа учит меня жизненной мудрости и понимания людей, а также (в качестве бонуса), дает возможность приобрести полезные привычки - они всегда помогут мне в жизни.
И еще много всего, сказанного и не-сказанного, о чем хочется говорить ночи напролет.
Радостное и грустное - все здесь, и все это так завораживает!
В йоге есть так называемая поза дерева - поза баланса. Требует концетрации и силы воли. Долгое время я не могла ее выполнить. Плакала даже. А теперь - стою хоть бы хны.
Чувствую вину за то, что живу такой сбалансированной жизнью. И смущение - оттого, что я обустроила это все сама. И страх - когда следующий поворот и какое испытание ждет за углом?
Apr 22, 2009
Trip to Thatta
I have visited it recently with my friends.
Learned a lot about history of the land and Sufi way of practicing Islam.
Apr 11, 2009
Jumah prayer
After we'd had our food (awesome Irani/Afgani rice with meat), we went back to the office hoping to get there through the usual road that we take.
However, soon after going outside the cafe, we realized that it was Friday afternoon (1pm) which is the time for jumah prayer.
There were people everywhere on the streets which lead to masjid (mosque / praying area), including the street that we usually take. They were sitting on praying mattresses which are put on earth, close to each other due to limited space, and going up and down while praying. Imam from the mosque was reading Qaran verses, and his voice was heard in the entire Saddar area.
Islam as a religion has a strong focus on practices for the whole community. All main rituals in Islam are created in such a way that Muslims around the world are doing them at the same time of the day (which do not reflect time differences though). This is done to give a feeling of unity to community of Muslims: "while I am saying my prayer I know that all Muslims in my country and around the world are doing the same".
Surprisingly, public buses were passing by the people praying, so close to them, almost stepping on their foot!
So we had to go all the way around to make a circle and reach the office :)
Interesting experience.
Apr 10, 2009
Not as obvious as it might seem
As many foreigners (or Pakistanis who came back from abroad) and meeting in a restaurant, we talked a lot about Pakistan. What is different in this country, where it is going, and what can make a difference here.
It was a long talk, but one of the things that struck me most was about child labor in Pakistan.
Ahsan was telling us how, during his university years in Lahore, he was involved in one interesting research program. At that time some Pakistani companies were refused to export their production to Europe due to the fact that they “used child labor” which is against EU standards. So students were supposed to interview the management of the companies and find out why it happened.
My first thought was “Fair enough. Using child labor is not acceptable thing to do. It seems like the right solution”.
But then he told us what was the response of company management. They said: look, we have a choice. These 12-year old kids might not work, and they go begging on the street. Or we can involve them in production, pay them money, and they will have food to eat and go to school.
This is the paradigm that is very difficult to understand for a European people who have normal living standards and who can not imagine how employment can help someone survive from begging, selling flowers on the street, let alone sleeping outside and not eating for days.
On a related note, Mariam was even telling me that some kids are being paid by NGOs for going to school! If they weren’t, they would go begging which is the easy way to get money for food.
The same question is raised when people talk about servants in Pakistan. I mentioned some time before how every upper-class family in Karachi would have their own servants: cleaning ladies, drivers, cooks. “It’s not fair!” – you could say – “how could people be servants for others!” Yet if you look at things from the other side, you will see that these servants get the opportunity to earn money and send their children to good schools, so that they achieve more in life than their parents.
Things might not be as obvious as they look from the 1st glance.
Being in Pakistan, I learned to look from different sides.
Apr 4, 2009
1st April report
It all started in the morning when I woke up and realized that it’s the 1st of April, the only day in the whole year which is completely about jokes, and I want to live it to the fullest :)
First person that I met in the morning was Mariam Zameer, my AIESEC colleague. When Mariam came to the office, SIEMENS people had already played a joke on her, so I thought that mine would not work. But I tried.
Mariam: Katya, tell me about the meeting that AIESEC Karachi had yesterday, how was it?
I: Well, it was a disaster! We were taken out of auditorium and had to sit on the grass.. And, the saddest thing is… Kiran [Mariam’s direct report] was presenting her year targets, members started to criticize them, and Kiran said she’s resigning from her position. Mehdi [another Mariam’s subordinate] is taking her portfolio now.
Mariam: What??? Tell me all in details… Kiran didn’t tell me anything… I will text her right now and ask about it…
(after some time)
I: So did Kiran reply to you?
Mariam: Yes, she said she didn’t want to tell me before, but she is really leaving… Oh no… (5 mins passed). Katya, it was not 1st April joke, was it?
:)
After that Mariam was eager to take part in further jokes with me.
So we texted Jeremy and Saaim [my other team mates] telling them that SIEMENS people are kicking us out of the office space and we are moving to SITE office [far far away from everything]. The thing is that SIEMENS people were really thinking about moving office to SITE area at some point, but topic was closed a few weeks ago.
In addition to sms, we brought SIEMENS guards on our side by asking them to make fools of Jeremy and Saaim when they arrive to the office.
In the meantime, AIESECers from
They were smart enough to reply: “Thanks for your letter, Katya, we decided to reopen application for a president, would you be so kind to take part in selection process as you already know the procedure?” I even checked MyAIESEC.net for notification about reopened applications…
(in 1 hour)
Saaim comes to the office with furious expression on his face, talking over the phone. Very soon we realize that he is talking to Sohail Wojahat, the CEO of SIEMENS.
Saaim (after the call): guys, pack your things, we are going to meet Sohail Wojahat at SITE office.
All: Why???
Saaim: He wants to see us. He is very disappointed of our behavior and jokes about moving the office. When you joke, please DO NOT joke about partners, OK??
Me and Mariam: We are really sorry, Saaim, we didn’t have any bad intentions! We thought you would not call the administration…
Oh if you could imagine what a reflection time I had during the next 2 hours!
My jokes are not funny at all. They disturb and harm other people. What kind of person I am… I should not live with people.
(in 2 hours)
Saaim: Well, I hope you got the joke, guys. I was not speaking to Sohail Wojahat, I was speaking to Jeremy. The whole SIEMENS office knows what April Fools you are :)
OK, I am not that bad in the end. Some people are even worse! Let’s continue with jokes … :)
My flat mates [foreign friends] were my next target.
30 min work with gmail, and they received a letter from Faisal Shaikh (our land lord) asking them to leave apartments that we are renting in Karach due to noise and not making payment on time.
In a min after having sent the email, I received a response from Bogdan, my Romanian flat mate:
“I'm very sorry to hear these things... I, myself, promise to be quiet on the stairs, clean after myself on the roof and pay my dues in time. Thank you for the notification!
Bogdan”
Hahaha!
(Bogdan wants to become famous, so he asked me to put his picture here)
Soon after internet in the office stopped working, and we moved to a café in Zamzama.
But my jokes didn’t stop :)
My friend Sasha from
I: To take part, you need to answer 2 questions: 1) why do you want to fly with PIA? 2) how will you entertain passengers during your free PIA flight?
Now look what Sasha, as a really determined person, sent me in 2 hours :)
Next was Yahya, my successor, who got a message from me with request to send his introduction to Sophie, from AIESEC head office. "This is Yahya, and I am good boy :-) I am very excited for what I am getting into and I know that it will be one of the most challenging, learning experiences in my life, so lets get rolling!"
It was the late evening when my friend called my cousin (Masha) and my brother (Andrei) to invite them to my wedding in June. I will be the 2nd wife of Mr Faisal Shaikh (yes yes, the same one who is our land lord - I just liked how the name sounds :) and didn't tell my parents yet, because obviously they will be shocked, but I want to see my beloved cousin and brother at the wedding.
Masha (smart girl) was reluctant to believe it at first, but eventually agreed to come to
But poor Andrei, he got it so seriously that even when I’d told him to check-out wedding website (www.apriljoke.com.pk), he started booking his ticket to
At midnight 1st April was over and I went to sleep, happy for the fruitful day :)
Thanks everyone, you are the best!
Mar 23, 2009
Bus Tour
Yesterday Jana, Rahab, Shi Shuai, Bogdan (my foreign friends), Munib (Pakistani) and myself went to an adventurous trip around the city in a public bus.
To help you understand why I call this trip adventurous I will provide you with some facts.
1. Public buses in
2. Some of my friends, students of good universities in
3. There are no bus stops in the city. Bus doesn't stop when you put up your hand. What it does though is slows down for a while to give you a chance to quickly get in.
4. There are no schedules, nor a map of how buses go around the city. Some of them do not even have numbers, just names, which are in urdu (language of Pakistan).
5. Men and women have separate sections in a bus.
6. Junaid Ahmed, my AIESEC colleague, after having gotten to know that we're going for a bus tour, sent me the following message: "Oh my god! With who? Crazy people! Cover your head and be safe"
What's really catches attention is that local pakistani buses look very different from their peers in other countries:
I have heard that bus drivers tend to spend half of their salary on the decoration of their bus.
Like, for instance, this dude :)
If you are a guy, you have an opportunity to see the whole city from the roof of a bus. Unfortunately, women are not allowed to sit there, otherwise I would use the chance :)
Trip was very exciting by the way.
We were in the first bus for 1,5 hours, and then we stopped and took another one for another hour. We went to a place on the other side of the
At the bus changing point we - foreigners - became the news for local people. Everyone took pictures of us and talked about us.
After the bus trip, tired and hungry, we went to
Sometimes I travel with bus to the office in the morning. My colleagues are shocked. :) but I am here to experience the culture. And public bus is a way to feel the city, that I definitely can't do in the air-conditioned car :)
Mar 17, 2009
Money can talk
Euro - this is from Italy where I went for International AIESEC Conference to meet 200 most talented young people from more than 100 countries of the world
Qatar Riyal - going to Italy, I stopped in Doha (the capital of Qatar) and bought a salad at the airport. Salad was fresh and tasty, and they gave me change in Riyals.
Pakistani Rupees - I have been living in Pakistan for 8 months already. It's been a fantastic experience so far. So many challenges, so many things I have seen and done for the first time in my life, so many tears, and so much growth in who I am.
American Dollars - they are always there for a "black day" :)
Money telling stories.
Feb 7, 2009
Chai chahie :)
Feb 5, 2009
Life style
Наблюдение
Jan 30, 2009
Из Москвы – назад в Карачи!
Помню чувство, которое я испытала, когда я приехала домой после 6 месяцев в Пакистане – будто бы я никуда и не уезжала вовсе :) настолько дома все привычно и знакомо. Как-будто эти месяцы в Пакистане случились давным давно или вовсе почудились мне во сне.
Интересно наблюдать, как меняется мое восприятие России и Пакистана – особенности двух наций и их образа жизни.
Например, пакистанцы не отличаются пунктуальностью (вернее – отличаются непунктуальностью :) что можно сказать и о русских.
Производительность труда пакистанцев прямо пропорциональна времени, которое босс проводит в офисе. Другими словами, люди работают только тогда, когда босс рядом; а когда его нет – не работают. В наших компаниях все похоже, не так ли? :)
И еще кое-что. Россия – страна женщин. В горящую избу и коня на скаку – это про нас. Пакистан, на первый взгляд, страна мужчин. Мужчины здесь добиваются гораздо больше, чем женщины. На более пристальный взгляд, скажем, на устройство семьи – мужчина «на виду», но женщина заправляет бал.