May 1, 2009

Blog is moving

Dear all,

I moved my blog to another domain.

You are all welcome to visit it at new location: http://ekaterina-khaletskaya.org

All the best,
Katya

Apr 29, 2009

Juice or book?

This is the juice shop near my office. They are making awesome banana shake.
To make those shakes, they take some power from city cable. Most probably they are doing it illegally.

Lets take a closer look what happens.


100 of juice shops like this in Karachi, and in the evening we will not have the power in the apartments for at least 1,5 hours.

Are you having a fresh shake in the morning or reading a book in the evening?

Unfortunately, it is still not up to us.

Apr 26, 2009

Being a foreigner in Pakistan


Ksusha, Bogdan and I went out for a picnic in the park.

Having finished the dinner (and half of the chapter of my book) we saw a group of people, looking like a big middle-class Pakistani family, going straight to our place.

They shake hands with us one by one and then asked to make a video. After the video was made, one of the women put her palm up showing that she wants us to leave signature there. We had no chance to say no, and soon her entire palm was covered with ink.

One of the guys (he seems the eldest and the only one knowing English) started to talk to Bordan: where are you from, where you studied, and how he would go visit his country. Others listened adorably.



Ksusha giving autograth to a local woman


We smiled. Yet I didn't feel comfortable about the whole thing. I am the same human being as you are, and my white skin and English skills are not the reason for giving autograph to you.


We packed our things and went away, before a new group of people could have come to take pictures with us.


Since the times when India was ruled by British, citizens of Subcontinent have had a tendency to rate themselves lower than a "white" person.

It is more obvious in Pakistan where even foreigners, when meeting each other, look surprised - it is not often when I see them around.

Pakistanis do their best to impress foreigners: for instance, in cafes and other public places they are usually over polite, even some hostels in Pakistan are built for foreigners only and local people are not allowed to stay there.

When I go to the shop, market or talk to the ordinary people on the street, they usually think that I come from London. Or United States. All "white" are associated with these two countries. Russia would not even come in their first 5.


Поза дерева

На прошлых выходных разговаривала с мамой по телефону.
Мы созваниваемся каждую неделю: как дела, как настроение, здоровье, какие новости, не тоскую ли вдали от дома.

Я заметила, что в последнее время, разговаривая с мамой, я прилагаю огромные усилия, чтобы вспомнить, что у меня идет не так.

Не может же быть так, чтобы все хорошо. Я к этому не привыкла...

Но, оглядываясь на прошедшую неделю: как я отмечала Пасху с ребятами из десяти разных уголков земли, с пакистанским "куличем", больше похожем на Christmas cake; смотрели с Шерми Ramchand Pakistani на языке Урду и понимали все без слов; ездили смотреть на крокодилов в суфийском храме, а потом, голодные, уминали вкуснейшее пакистанское chickem makni в Tandoori Hut; обсуждали с Марьям случай со студентом в Лахоре - когда же люди в этой стране одумаются и вспомнят ценности, заложенные в ее фундаменте; поздравляла Арсалаана с предстоящей стажировкой в Украине в местной школе; с открытым ртом слушали экскурс в историю Пакистана от Junaid'а - совсем молодого, а такого интеллигентного, и спорили, и делали открытия, каждый для себя и общие; укутывалась в Пакистанский платок поверх shalwar kameez'а, сидя на валике и слушая пакистанскую народную музыку в Университете Искусства; ездила на работу на местном автобусе, теснясь между школьницами в черных одеждах с тетрадями на коленках, - я молча улыбаюсь.

Я люблю свою работу, за которой рабочий день по ощущениям длится не 8 часов, а всего час. Моя работа учит меня жизненной мудрости и понимания людей, а также (в качестве бонуса), дает возможность приобрести полезные привычки - они всегда помогут мне в жизни.

И еще много всего, сказанного и не-сказанного, о чем хочется говорить ночи напролет.
Радостное и грустное - все здесь, и все это так завораживает!

В йоге есть так называемая поза дерева - поза баланса. Требует концетрации и силы воли. Долгое время я не могла ее выполнить. Плакала даже. А теперь - стою хоть бы хны.

Чувствую вину за то, что живу такой сбалансированной жизнью. И смущение - оттого, что я обустроила это все сама. И страх - когда следующий поворот и какое испытание ждет за углом?

Apr 22, 2009

Attention please

Some notes on the walls in our office really make me smile :-)




Trip to Thatta

Thatta is a city outside Karachi.
I have visited it recently with my friends.

Learned a lot about history of the land and Sufi way of practicing Islam.

Apr 11, 2009

Jumah prayer

On Friday afternoon Jeremy and I went out for lunch.
After we'd had our food (awesome Irani/Afgani rice with meat), we went back to the office hoping to get there through the usual road that we take.

However, soon after going outside the cafe, we realized that it was Friday afternoon (1pm) which is the time for jumah prayer.

There were people everywhere on the streets which lead to masjid (mosque / praying area), including the street that we usually take. They were sitting on praying mattresses which are put on earth, close to each other due to limited space, and going up and down while praying. Imam from the mosque was reading Qaran verses, and his voice was heard in the entire Saddar area.

Islam as a religion has a strong focus on practices for the whole community. All main rituals in Islam are created in such a way that Muslims around the world are doing them at the same time of the day (which do not reflect time differences though). This is done to give a feeling of unity to community of Muslims: "while I am saying my prayer I know that all Muslims in my country and around the world are doing the same".


Surprisingly, public buses were passing by the people praying, so close to them, almost stepping on their foot!

So we had to go all the way around to make a circle and reach the office :)

Interesting experience.

This picture is from a different place (I didn't take any pictures that day as it's not really respectful to do so), I just wanted to show how community prayers look like.